Flax, the sesame-size seed that one nutritionist calls "the wheat germ of the millennium," is flying out of bulk bins and into grocery carts.

"In 2001, we sold 2,000 pounds of whole flaxseed," said Donnie Caffrey of Good Foods Grocery Inc. "In 2003, we sold 3,000 pounds."

"I always recommend flax," said Tina Shiver, a registered dietitian who counsels individuals on a broad range of health-related nutrition topics.

Scientific evidence confirms that flax is a rich source of omega-3 fatty acids that help protect against heart disease, diabetes and some types of cancer. And it has a good balance of omega-3 to omega-6, both essential fatty acids.

"Essential fatty acids are necessary for the formation of healthy cell membranes, the proper development and functioning of the brain and nervous system and for the production of hormonelike substances called eicosanoids," said Brenda Davis, registered dietitian with Vegetarian Nutrition Dietetic Practice Group of the American Dietetic Association. Davis also is co-author of "Becoming Vegetarian" (Book Publishing Co., 1995, $16.95) and "Becoming Vegan" (Book Publishing Co., 2000, $16.95).

"Eicosanoids formed from the omega-6 family have the potential to increase blood pressure, inflammation, platelet aggregation, thrombosis, allergic reaction and cell proliferation," Davis said. "Those from the omega-3 family have opposing effects."

The omega-3 fatty acids in flax are the plant world's equivalent to those in fatty fish, such as tuna, salmon and mackerel.

Dr. Artemis Simopoulos, co-author of "The Omega Diet" (HarperCollins, 1999, $14), cites the good balance of fatty acids in the traditional diet of the Greek island of Crete, where the rates of heart disease and cancer are among the world's lowest. Their diet is rich in cereals, fruits, vegetables, olive oil and to a lesser degree milk, eggs and fish. In the United States, where heart disease in the leading cause of death, the diet is heavy in processed foods, much higher in omega-6 fatty acids and much lower in omega-3 fatty acids.

In addition to incorporating more omega-3s into a balanced, healthful diet, flax also is a good source of fiber.

Since flax has both soluble and insoluble fiber, it is beneficial in several areas, said Janet Starkey, a registered dietitian and director of the Nutrition Clinic at VCU Medical Center. Soluble fiber's benefits include maintaining blood glucose levels and lowering serum cholesterol levels. Insoluble fiber influences regularity.

Both Starkey and Elisabeth Peterson, dietitian at Peterson Nutrition and Fitness on Bremo Road, mentioned that the lignans (plant estrogens) in flax have shown cancer-blocking components in scientific studies on animals.

Trials in humans are under way to test the effects of lignans in flax. Breast, colon and prostate cancers are among targets.

"When I first started nutrition counseling here a little more than two years ago, nobody had heard of flaxseed," recalled Pam Speich, registered dietitian with Ukrop's Super Markets. "Now, clients are asking me about flax."

Peterson, who has been spreading the gospel for about five years, agreed that the past year has brought a huge turnaround in awareness of the benefits of flax.

Elaine Magee, a registered dietitian whose syndicated column The Recipe Doctor appears occasionally in The Times-Dispatch, and author of more than 20 cookbooks, laughed when asked why she wrote a whole book about flax.

"I couldn't ignore it," she said. "In doing research for other books, I kept finding out how flax helped with all sorts of medical problems."

Magee talked recently from California where she had "holed up" in a hotel room to finish "Smart Carbs, Smart Fats," her next book.

"The Flax Cookbook: Recipes and Strategies for Getting the Most From the Most Powerful Plant on the Planet" (Marlowe & Co., $14.95), which is in its third printing, originally came out in January 2003.

Magee was the first beneficiary of her flax research. She began eating 1 tablespoon of ground flax daily when she began the book. By the time she finished it, about 3½ months later, she had lowered her total serum cholesterol by 15 points and her LDL ("bad") cholesterol by eight points while her HDL ("good") cholesterol remained the same.

"I didn't change anything else in my diet, which was pretty amazing," Magee said. "It also stopped my PMS breast soreness and stabilized my irritable bowel syndrome."

Despite scientific evidence that the omega balance might ameliorate or help prevent coronary artery disease, stroke, autoimmune disorders, Crohn's disease, certain cancers, mild hypertension and rheumatoid arthritis, all the nutritionists polled agreed flax is not a dietary "silver bullet."

"Everybody wants that quick fix, and that thinking has got to change," Shiver said.

Magee is hopeful that change is at hand:

"For the first time, I think we are at the point where we finally can begin putting the [nutrition] puzzle together."